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~discourse in delirium~

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15 novembre

Roma Day 1 ~ Trinita dei Monti


Yes, I'm still in Day 1. There are just too many pictures and stories to share. The back part is even better (and I haven't even got to Venice yet.) It seems that each place we visited, deserve its very own commentary and entry. Hee...are you all getting frustrated like 'hello? why is it still day 1?" Or hopefully, it's the impatience to read on...Tongue out

I have to thank all those who encouraged me to continue writing this travel blog. Want to share with friends, my 1st trip to Europe. This is probably the most efficient & effective, as many of you are scattered across the globe and across many busy-ness of life to meet up.

Ok...this is going to be a short one.

After admiring the sun setting over the skyline of Roma atop the Spanish Steps, we head off to the church before we hit the restaurant for dinner. U know...getting the most out of the day when someplace was still open.

Trinita dei Monti sat along the Pincio Hill. The Roman column before it was being restored. And we missed the "whole" view of the church's exterior with this column. Its double bell tower and the double flights of front stairs lend the church an air of aristocratic loveliness.



Even though the Spanish Steps is one of the landmarks of Rome (being the shopping street like Orchard Road), this French church was not big in the multitude of churches and basilicas. I like the feeling of this pillar at the bottom of the stairs. Quiet...old...weathered...out in the open (and not in the museum).



When we stepped inside, we were greeted with a life-size statue of Jesus. Very toned and muscular with all the abs work. The church was dimly lit, with the exception of the area in front of the altar, where a mass was ongoing.



Beyond these gates, soft hymns abound, while the sermon was being read. The congregation sat in the pews, unaffected by the tourists who were sitting quietly and respectfully outside these wrought iron grilles.

These grilles remind me of the movie 'Romeo & Juliet' starring Leonardo di Caprio and Claire Danes. I don't know why but I'm sure one of the scenes had featured the heart with spikes spouting out from all angles. Even though the film was shoot in Mexico for most parts, I was jostled to think about the film when I saw this symbol atop the gate separating the faithful from the outside world.

   

After less than 1/2 hour, we left the church and headed off for dinner at Leonardo restaurant which was located below the Spanish Steps and in front of the building that's the design house of Valentino. The food was ok...nothing to shout about. Service was prompt. And as usual, we sat outside with the cool breeze caressing our face as we ate. We had beers & wine, and by the end of dinner, were intoxicated enough for a good night's sleep.



Next up: day 2 finally...and the day we saw the Pope!

06 novembre

Roma Day 1 ~ Spanish Steps


Thanks to Sarah! I needed an encouragement to continue writing this. It's getting kinda difficult to get the pictures edited and words thought out for a travel journal of Rome, where there are just so many details to share. Ok...back to the entry...

After a quick shower & a much-needed short nap in our hotel room, we were left with not much time to explore the rest of the places on my itinerary for the 1st day (since everything almost closes at 7pm!). So I thought why not take the chance to go explore the shopping district of Rome? To see what's good there and also to visit the famous cafe for quick cuppa.

The Spanish Steps, or Piazza di Spagna, in Rome is like Orchard Road to us, just minus a monumental church, fountain, obelisks & centuries of history & politics behind it.
Why is this place special to Rome, one would ask? Since it was a non-archaeological site, it certainly didn't add much credit to it being an eternal city (esp. with the shopping closing so early at 7!). The answers lie in its architectural significance to town planning.



In this fine example of late Baroque town planning, 138 steps link church and commerce, with the Trinita dei Monti looming above with its now-currently-renovating obelisk, and the shopping streets spanning below. The steps are sectioned into 3 with 2 major terraces overlooking the shopping streets and crowd. Its widening & contracting is almost rhythmic, with gentle Rococo accents & heroic Baroque certainties. Along the steps, many people (locals & tourists alike) sat, chit-chatted & people-watched. We, too, did the same and our feet totally enjoyed the rest as our eyes feasted on beautiful people.



And of course, I needed to do what a typical tourist-movie-addict does on the Spanish Steps...take a picture of myself sitting on that particular step! Hahaha....for those who know me, you would know that I'm camera shy and hate to take portraits of people, especially myself. Well...here it is. This was where Roman Holiday was shot, with Audrey Hepburn, eating a gelato, sitting on these exact steps. I had to get my own little brush with fame! Just a little backside brush!



However, it was disappointing to me. As in the film, these steps were beautiful. I guess we came at the wrong time of the year where the azaleas were not in bloom (springtime flowers) & the obelisk was in renovation, spoiling the otherwise magnificent view up to the sky from the bottom of the stairs. I was not really impressed with Piazza di Spagna. To me, it was just a public space with a lot of people!



The Spanish Steps is a misnomer. It was in fact built not by the Spanish, but by the French. Another disconcerting thing about this piazza is the existence of un-European palm trees. Yes, these are the palm trees that you will find at home, in Malaysia and plenty in Phuket. Well, who says that everything needs to match right? As long as they don't look strange I guess.

In the 18th century, this was the place where intellectuals & artists from all over the world gathered & lived. Especially the English. Two famous English poets died in Rome and a museum located on the immediate right of the Spanish Steps was dedicated to both of them, John Keats & Shelley. This rose-colored building was the place where Keats died in 1821 when he was only 26 years old from tuberculosis. He was buried in Rome, under a unnamed tomb reading "Here lies one whose name was writ in water."




Right at the foot of the Spanish Steps, a fountain was surrounded by hordes of tourists, struggling to get a solo picture of themselves in front of this unimpressive water aqueduct. Fontana della Barcaccia was commissioned by the Barberini family (Pope Urban VIII, which made them akin to royalty during those times, when one of the family members became pope) as can be seen by the bees symbol, like a crest on a trophy or a gate. The water trickles from the nozzles of the old leaky boat due to the low water pressure. It looked not as poetic or artistically exciting as the rest of the fountains that I had seen in Rome. And it was dirtier than most.



As you walked further down to the right of the Spanish Steps, a towering obelisk sought my attention once again. Pity that I didn't note down its name. Its intricate and unusual ironwork (quite un-Egyptian like) is beautiful. It seemed to be that this was a more recent obelisk, built intentionally by the Vatican to propagate the faith during the missionary height of the Catholic church.



Climbing the 138 steps, resting in between (hahaha...we are very old liao), the view on the top terrace was breathtaking. Especially with the sun setting in the background. Standing on part of Pincio Hill, with Trinita dei Monti looming in the background & dusk in the foreground, I took a long moment snapping away...taking in the rooftops, bell towers & cupolas of St Peter's and the Pantheon set against the raging-orange of a setting sun. Awe-inspiring!



Next up: the church that reminded me of 'Romeo & Juliet'!



03 novembre

Roma Day 1 ~ Bettoja Hotel Mediterraneo


Can't sleep again! So, am up & sitting in front of my laptop doing another entry, with my table lamp in soothing orange light and iTunes playing in the background.

We went back to our hotel to check in at 2pm. Alas! We couldn't as our rooms were not ready. Since check-in time was 2pm, I thought it was totally ok to ask when we can check in. They said 5pm! And that was 2 hours later! Imagine...we had been on a 13-hr flight, went out to walk for almost 8 hours, we feel totally dirty and tired and we REALLY REALLY wanted to check in, take a quick shower and just LIE DOWN for a while. So I said that we were very tired and was there any way that they could hasten this. After a 'roll-eye' expression and flipping frustratingly through the guest book, the lady at the hotel reception said 3pm.

Seriously, I had never received worse service in a 4-star hotel before! And that was without an apology for missing the rightful check-in time. Many people were already checked-in. Those who arrived in the morning, left the luggage with the concierge..they were no longer there, like us, waiting for our rooms.

So, we went to lounge in the lobby and eventually fell asleep (all 3 of us!) in the armchairs, right out in the open. Imagine!




I enjoyed the room, the breakfast spread (which we realized, was really sumptuous only after going to Venice & the next hotel in Rome. After 9 days, we were really bored with the selection), the proximity to Roma Termini, bus stops, and food. But you would have to tolerate the service if you are yellow-skinned. Ok if you are white or black or brown.

Don't be mistaken. I did enjoy Rome and what its art, architecture, culture and history could offer. But this racism was something that I had only experienced now (which I had to count my blessings for). Even though, compared to what had already transpassed in history, it was only a small brush on the shoulder. Some Romans were nice (I could count with 1 hand) but most were really.... Sigh! Don't expect the same efficiency and prompt service that you received in Singapore (Same thing goes for the airport. That would be another slamming entry! Haha!). And yes, we complained about it when we were in SG, about the service level (Service is definitely better in Taipei. I heard it's even more excellent in Japan). For my friends who had yet stepped into Rome (or other arrogant European cities), you wouldn't after. The conclusion,"It's ok for them to be leisurely in their service, ok for them to be slow, but not for you, as they are very impatient people."

Bettoja Hotel Mediterraneo
Metro: Roma Termini :: right along the street facing the bus terminal
Via Cavour 15 - 00184
Average rate per night: €240 = S$500 (rates are dependent on the season that you are staying - more expensive in autumn & spring)
I booked my hotels in Italy via this very good website that has independent traveler reviews, pictures and maps.




Our room was red and surprisingly big. It even had a small walk-in closet, which you can imagine my thrill! The bathroom was luxuriously spaciously, with a bathtub and lots of space in front of the sink. Traffic noises were considered low. Beds were comfortable though I could really use an extra pillow. TV was small and only had 1 English channel (BBC). Most of the time, we were too tired and just zoned out watching the news and following up on what was happening in Myanmar (riots) & Bangkok (plane crash) during that time.



The hotel has a roof-top garden, which you should check out for the view. You could have your tea here or breakfast. We didn't try...coz we were eager to set off to explore every day. I think the suites are located on this top 10th level.



Oh yah...the breakfast was really good...sumptuous. A spread compared to the other hotels we stayed in later on. Luckily, we stayed in this one for the longest duration. The other 2, I think, would have bored our palate by the 3rd day and we would have gone hopping around looking for breakfast. As long as there were eggs, cereal, ham, toast, salad and tea, I was happy! Esther said that the coffee (in 1 whole pot) tasted good too. And that was only 'cafe' in the Italians' eyes. You could also order espresso (Amanda did!) or cappuccino if you want to. Grab the very busy waitresses around! Breakfast starts from 6am till 10am and we ate our fill. Or at least, I ate my fill! I wasn't even hungry for lunch yet when Amanda was already screaming for food around 1pm. Imagine that! Haha...

Next up: the shopping district of Rome!


01 novembre

Roma Day 1 ~ lunctime @ Ristorante Al Boschetto!


Famished, we went in search of a restaurant to have our very 1st meal in Rome. I wanted to try this pizzeria 'Est! Est!! Est!!!' in my guidebook. After winding down many roads, we finally found the address. But alas! There was some construction going on and the signboard on the right address wasn't even 'Est! Est!! Est!!!'. (Afterwards, many days later, we chanced upon this restaurant, only minutes away from our hotel!? It had changed address.) So, in the end, we walked around, desperately looking for a restaurant that we felt confident going into.

This 1st restaurant in a foreign country is always difficult, isn't it? U don't know the price, u are not sure of the service standards, u absolutely don't know what to expect, unsettled by a foreign environment whereby u need to find that 1st meal to appease your hunger.

So we tried the good 'ole method of going into this restaurant that had reviews (Japanese ones at that) pasted on the window panes. And rave reviews on their mushrooms dishes. This, was the deciding factor for me! MUSHROOMS! My favorite...haha! At least, it would not be too far off the mark right? Let me introduce Ristorante Al Boschetto.



Ristorante Al Boschetto
Via del Boschetto, 30
tel: 06.4744770


When we entered, there were no guests and no hostesses to receive the guests! Imagine our hesitant footsteps...
We saw an inside garden on the window panes and thus, we decided to walk further in and that was when a well-dressed waiter showed us to our table in the patio at the back. Coming from Singapore, I wouldn't call this a 'garden' per say. Except for a few potted plants and 1 sunflower table cover, this hardly resembled a garden in my opinion.



After scanning through the menu (luckily, there's English under some of the dishes), we decided on our following courses - 1 pasta & 1 main course to share, and a drink for each of us.

I had a bottled beer, called Tuborg. It costs about €4 (S$8.50). The beers and glasses of wine here can range from €4 to €8. As compared to other drinks like soft drinks (€3 to €6) and water (€2 to €5), I thought the price difference really calls for a drink of beer, even though it was only noon! Hee...Wink The beer is light, smooth and easy to drink with a light malt taste and without that awful bitterness of over-fermentation. In fact, it was really cooling to drink in the afternoons and after walking around in search of a restaurant.



My stomach was really growling by the time both the main course and pasta were served for the three of us to share. Our main course is grilled veal. It was tasty, salty, lean and tender. Hmmm....with a quick squeeze of lemon over the veal, the refreshing taste enveloped my taste buds without the 'fishiness' of veal. There was hardly enough to go around! Haha...we had underestimated our appetites!



Discovery of the porcini mushrooms (wild mushrooms) was mushroomy delicious! It's a little crunchy, but yet soft and has a great mushroomy taste! Our fettuccine is done aglio olio style. It had a wonderful taste, with some thyme sprinkled on top, and mushrooms in every forkful. There was just not enough mushrooms to go around! I wonder if Singapore sells these mushrooms. I bet they must be quite expensive. I saw them later at the grocer. Was so tempted to buy them home! At the end, it was a tad oily, with the olive oil gathering in a small pool on the plate. But, we still finished the whole thing! Haha...to hell with my diet! I'm not proud of it...but it can't be helped rite?



And because, we were still hungry...we added to our existing order! A tiramisu & a fruit dessert please! In the end, no pictures...haha...coz we were busy gobbling down our food. The tiramisu was so-so...Modestos' is better. The fruit dessert was a disappointment. It was just fruits, soaked in syrupy water and they didn't taste very fresh. Well...at least, it was going to ease the constipation of 1 of my pals. Ha!

Next up: back to our hotel!
31 ottobre

Roma Day 1 ~ Santa Pudenziana


From Santa Maria Maggiore, we decided to proceed to Santa Pudenziana but not without our 1st gelato in Italy!

We crossed the road to the eatery right on the side and ordered. 1st lesson about ordering any food in Italy: once u sit down, the charges are different! Be it a meal or a simple ice-cream, there will be service charge! We bought our 1st gelato @ €3 (S$6.40). But it's only 1 scoop, mind u! Gosh...very expensive! We thought it was €2 and since we are so hungry, we thought a small ice-cream snack would do no harm. So, we sat down right on the sidewalk, thinking 'let's people-watch here!". As we discussed after buying the ice-cream, we realized that the charges are different for sit-in dining or takeaway. So, remember to indicate to the cashier whether you would be having your ice-cream scone in the restaurant, or walking with it! Haha....

Oh yah...and 2nd lesson about food: don't buy water from those quaint food vendors (small little trucks) who parked right in front of tourist attractions or churches. Our small bottle of mineral water costed €2, which we realized later to be only €1 if you buy from stalls within the Metro or from the supermarket.

After having our gelato, we set off for Santa Pudenziana ('Santa' means 'Saint', so when you see this word within a name of a place, it usually means a church dedicated to that particular saint) from the back of Santa Maria Maggiore ('Maria' means 'Mary'). Walking along Via A. Depretis, turn left into the 2nd street. This is what greeted us.




Santa Pudenziana
Via Urbana 160
Bus: C3, 16, 70, 71, 75, 105, 360, 590, 649, 714
Closed 12 - 3pm


Through the wrought iron gates, stairs sprang down to the church courtyard from both sides.




We took a moment standing in the middle, and admired the faded facade of the church. Though the colors are very much muted now with pieces already fallen off, it was still beautiful and especially set against the vivid blueness of the sky above. Its quaintness was charming...and the square courtyard, lined with wrought iron benches on 3 sides, was beckoning us to enter.



The church is small, as compared to the previous Santa Maria Maggiore that we had just witness. However, its charm is not to be undermined. Soft hymns were playing in the background, lending a peaceful ambiance for those who were praying. The 4th-century apse, made of mosaic, is classical in style.



The mosaic art shows Jesus sitting on a jeweled throne surrounded by 10 Apostles. Supposedly having 12 Apostles, the other 2 were cut off during a 16th-century restoration). The architectural background with temples & basilicas, as depicted in the mosaic, makes this piece of art fall into the age of classical.



The church was dedicated to Santa Pudenziana, whose father, a senator & an early Christian, had welcomed St. Peter into their family home. Here's a marble sculpture named "The Delivery of the Keys" in Saint Peter Chapel (1595) depicting the hospitality of the roman senator Pudente.



I walked around the church & saw this very well-preserved mosaic art showing the Virgin Mary cradling Jesus.



After we exited from the church, I saw red eyes on my friend's face. Hee...she was touched by the Holy Spirit, she said. This is one of her favorite churches in Rome. She has 2. We sat for a while in the courtyard, relishing the peacefulness of the bright sunlight and the endless chatter of some Filipinos who either are residents or were paying pilgrimage to this church.

My stomach was growling by the time we hit mid-day. So it's off to lunch! But...before we left, this Filipino guy said, "Ciao, cutie!". Haha...our 1st encounter!

Next up: lunchtime! yum yum!


 
Thanks for visiting! Leave the crazy duckie a message here...it would be nice to know who's reading. Open-mouthed
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Sarahha scritto:
yoz.. still at day one...
i want to hear about the pope...

*squats and wait*
27 Gen.
Senza nomeha scritto:
mushroom, jia you!!!! Good to see your creative juices flowing. Now everytime i meet you will bug you about writing more. Great pictures as usual!Nerd
15 Nov.
nyeoha scritto:
 Hmmm.... look like u really put in a lot of effort to write this blogWink Hahaha.. very intertesting .
13 Nov.
duckieha scritto:
Yay! Finally someone! Hahaha...thanks for leaving me a message! At least when i'm updating my blog, i know that my friends are reading! I'm only at Day 1. Imagine that! There's really too many pictures...about 2,000! So i need to sieve out those that have a meaning or are interesting.

See u this week! Look forward to the Deepavali hols!

5 Nov.
Sarahha scritto:
Yo...
Im the first one to lay my feet on this guest book... *grinz*
Just landed in Singapore after the Bangkok rush...

Nice pictures and really long entries ...
to compensate for the lost time huh?
I thought u had abandoned this blog all together...
heee...

Looking forward to more updates on Rome ...
Wish i could have been there... sigh... minus the part about racism though...

Ill meet up with you again soon.. most probably this week...
take care

5 Nov.